Holiday Mountain Treks & Expedition has organized and provided services for many successful ascents on most of the world's highest peaks including Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Ama Dablam etc. We also have assisted independent climbers, private groups and government-backed expeditions all the way to the summit. Our staffs are organized and professional; and every year we are a success.
Holiday Mountain Treks & Expedition will provide you with the entire necessary infrastructure to assist you (as it is authorized government licensed professional mountaineering expedition organizer/operator trekking company/agency in Nepal) in your summit attempt. We will do all the necessary paperwork for Nepal expedition/climbing permits, organize all accommodation before/after expedition, organize base camp facilities, transport loads and provide food, tents, porters, sherpas, advice and essential assistance.We offer these service to experienced and competent mountaineers only. Previous high altitude and technical climbing experience is required. Our Nepalese mountain guides and climbing sherpas are some of the most experienced in the world and will assist you as much as possible in your summit attempt.
We also provide all Nepal mountaineering expedition information, climbing gear/equipments list discussion, itineraries, climbing guide and other support, permit obtaining, application form and other logistic work.
Out of the 14 highest peaks in the world, eight, including
the tallest peak Mount Everest, lie in Nepal. No wonder Nepal
is the favourite destination for mountaineers, with more than
600 expeditions trudging up the Himalaya each year.
It is only from 1949, as far as the history of mountaineering achievements
go, that any human tasted success in the Nepalese Himalaya when the team consisting
of Bill Tilman, Peter Lloyd and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa scaled Mt. Paldor 5,928m.
Tenzing Norgay, of course, went on to become one of the two men, the other
being New Zealander Edmund Hillary, to blaze the first ever successful trail
to the top of Mt. Everest in 1953.
Since there are much more facilities and amendments being made in favor of
the climbers, it is beginning to woo more and more people. There are so many
tall tales to be a part of and as many records to try to beat. Most of all,
there is the silent beckoning of these lofty creations which have been there
before man, challenging him, and they will continue to tease and test his spirit
as long as they are there.
Seasons, procedures and Permits
The mountaineering season in Nepal is divided into four seasons, Spring, Summer,
Autumn and Winter. The most popular among them is the spring season, when the
harsh weather of winter leaves the mountain after dumping fresh snow and before
the monsoon starts. The second best season would be the Autumn season.
Procedure:
A. The following documents have to be sent to the Ministry
of tourism, Mountaineering Division, Katmandu, Nepal
Completed
Application
Endorsement of the National Alpine Club (if there
is no Alpine Club, endorsement of the Government of
your side)
Short biography of all members of the expedition
(with photograph)
Map and/ or photograph of the mountain
including climbing route.
Approach route map.
Since climbing permission is granted on 'first come first
serve' basis, it is therefore necessary to enlist the
expedition's name for the particular mountain for the
particular season of the year. The listing is made when
the completed application form with all documents are
received by the Ministry of Tourism. Incase all documents
mentioned above cannot be submitted at a time, booking
is possible with only the completed application by the
expedition leader. No fee is required to enlist the expedition's
name.
B. Your expedition must be handled by the Government
registered trekking company in Nepal. Which can do all
the necessary work for the climbing permission as your
local expedition operator or local contactor as per mountaineering
Expedition Regulations.
C. Climbing Permit fee (royalty): The
leader of the expedition team or its agent is required
to compulsorily pay the full amount of climbing permit
fee (Royalty) before the permit is granted
D. Preparation In Nepal for Expedition:
Import of foods and equipment:- Invoices and airway bill or bill of lading
(four copies each) have to be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism for
import license and customs clearance for the import of expedition foods
and equipment to Nepal. CIF Katmandu value is to be clearly mentioned in
the invoice.
Communication Equipment:- As Walkie-talkies, Transceiver
(Wireless) sets and other communication equipment are controlled articles
in Nepal. Please declare these articles in the customs office (at entry
point) that you wish to bring into Nepal for use during climbing period.
Such equipments have to be collected from the customs office by receiving
permission letter from the Ministry of communication.
For the clearance of the equipment completed application form and invoice
with catalogue or specifications (four copies each) should be submitted
to the Ministry of Tourism which are latter to be sent to other concerned
government offices.
E. Filming or Documentary: Permission is required
for filming or documentary. The Ministry of Communication must be contacted
any time for queries about filming in Nepal. Please let us know we will
take care of every thing here in Nepal.
F. The Royalty and size of the Expedition team "Rules effective
from 1996 Spring": More than one team maybe permitted to climb Sagarmatha
(Mt. Everest) by each separate route in one season. A royalty of US $ 50,000
has been fixed for Sagarmatha for a team consisting of 5 members. The team
may include 5 more members provided if it pays extra US $ 10,000 for each
additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members.
The team members will be granted three months visas. Additional US $ 20,000
will have to be paid the team willing to scale Sagarmatha by normal South
East Ridge route.
In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have
up to 5 members for the minimum royalty, and 5 more members for the additional
royalty.
The team already permitted to scale Sagarmath will have to pay US $ 10,000
if it intends to change the ascent route. It will have to pay additional US
$ 20,000 if it intends to change the ascent route to normal South East Ridge
route.
For peak other than Sagarmatha, the team will have to pay additional 25% of
the royalty in US $ to change the ascent route.
Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and
procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their
respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism & Civil
Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded
after the dispatch of garbage from Nepal.
"Effective from 1992" the Ministry of Tourism has fixed the price of the deposit
for the management of Garbage's by each mountaineering team who tries to claim
any peak in Khumbu region are as follows;
Royalty: Sagarmatha-South-West Ridge
1
member, Total US$ 25,000.00
2 members, Total US$ 40,000.00
3 members, Total US$ 48,000.00
4 members, Total US$ 56,000.00
5 members, Total US$ 60,000.00
6 members, Total US$ 66,000.00
7 members, Total US$ 70,000.00
Additional member each US$ 10,000.00 (Up to 5 Person)
Other 3 routs-West ridge, West Face and South Pillar has fixed the royalty
which is USD 50000 for the group of 1-7 and additional member each USD 10000
up to 5 person.
Royalty Other than Mt. Everest
- Peaks above 8000m US $ 10,000 (1-7members) and $ 1500 for each additional
member exceeding 7 members
- Peaks of 7501-8000m US S 4000 (1-7 members) and US S 500 for each additional
members exceeding 7members
- Peaks of 7001-7500m US S 3000 (1-7 members) and US S 400 for each additional
members exceeding 7 members
- Peaks of 6501-7000m US S 2000 (1-7 members) and US S 300 for each additional
members exceeding 7 members
- Peaks below 6501m US S 1500 (1-7 members) and US S 200 for each additional
members exceeding 7 members
Refundable Garbage Deposit
Mt. Everest US S 4000 or equivalent ( local currency)
Other peaks above 8000 meter US $ 3000 or equivalent (local currency)
All peaks less than 8000 meters US $ 2000 or equivalent (local currency)
Expedition climbing equipments
Personal:
Down Sleeping Bag, Down Jacket, Trouser, Climbing boot double best company, Gore-Tex or other company's wind proof jacket and Trouser, Get up ICE-axe with Ice hammer, Crampon, Harness, Snow Glass, Main rope, ICE Crew, Sable small, Mattress, Carbine single lock, Head Light, Eight finger, Knife, Woolen Globe, Bag Cover, Wind mask for climbing, Climbing clove
Group:
Fixed rope, Main rope, Oxygen, Climbing tents, Mask and regulator
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